Dress Shirt Collars

dress shirt collar illustration
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We believe in having a mix of collar styles at Hugh & Crye. From deep cutaways to classic points and everything in between, we've got a style that works for any occasion you can think of.

Other sites and menswear bloggers might suggest that you should get a collar that counter-balances your face - e.g., if you have a longer face, you should wear spread collars, or if you have a rounder face, you should wear a point collar. We think this is bogus. We feel you should get a collar that matches your own personal style and not worry about following someone else's rules for what you might like or what they feel might look good on you. The most important thing is to have a shirt that fits, everything else is personal preference.

Dress Shirt Interlining


Collar Interlining

Dress shirt collars contain interlining, which is an extra piece of material that can be sewn or fused to the collar. Using interlining in a collar gives it extra structure and a stiffer feel. Structure in a collar is a good thing, as it improves the stand of the collar, whether worn on its own, or under the lapel of a blazer. Interlining comes in two varieties: sewn or fusible. Sewn interlining has a bespoke feel to it, as a piece of fabric is hand sewn onto the collar. The problem that often occurs with sewn interlining is that it can shift underneath the collar over time, creating an uneven look to the collar. Fusible interlining is as it sounds - the interlining is fused with a light adhesive onto the collar. Nearly all dress shirts available today employ some sort of fusible interlining. That said, fusible (and sewn) interlining comes in a variety of weights, qualities and textures. A sign of low quality interlining is a "bubbling" sort of effect inside the collar. High quality interlining will maintain its structure and wearability over time - through many wears, washes and ironing. Note that casual shirts often have little or no interlining (ideally a very light weight interlining), and that is a good thing. In a casual shirt you want a more natural look and feel to the collar, without the stiffness.

plastic collar stays are used for a professional look

Collar Stays

Dress shirt collar stays (sometimes known as "collar bones") are little pointed pieces of plastic or metal that you insert into the underside of a collar. Along with the interlining of your collar, collar stays are the best defense to keeping a collar upright and with a sharp point over time, by preventing the collar from curling or rolling up during wear, giving a more polished and professional look. Collar stays come in two varieties: sewn-in or removable. Sewn-in collar stays are literally sewn into the fabric, and thus are not removable without opening up the stitching of the collar. Sewn-in collar stays are cheaper to produce and often break within the enclosure, resulting in an uneven and broken looking collar. All Hugh & Crye collar stays are removable collar stays. You can remove them at your will, and replace them as well. Collar stays often come in various sizes, and it's important to use a length that is appropriate for your collar. If your collar stay is too short for the collar blade, it will lose its effect, and not be able to maintain a sharp point. If the collar stay is too long, it will prevent the collar from folding properly, where the collar meets the collar stand. 

Dress Shirt Collar Types

Diagram of dress shirt collar spread spacing

Shirt Collars: Spread vs. Point

Men's dress shirt collars come in a variety of styles, some more subtle than others. The most common difference in collar style is what is known as the "spread." The collar spread is the distance between collar points on a collar. Think of a continuum of shirt collar spreads, where left to right, shirt collars go from less spread to more spread. The order would be: Point, Semi-Spread, Spread, Cutaway; with the Cutaway Collar obviously having the most spread, or distance between its two collar points.

Formal tall-spread collar in purple

Tall Spread Collar

The Hugh & Crye Tall Spread Collar is one of our most "formal" collars, if we can call it that. The formality comes in the form of a high collar band, and why we call this collar "tall." The higher collar band gives this collar an upright, formal stand, which is best worn under a blazer or suit jacket. When worn with a blazer or jacket, this collar gives a great presence, whether worn with a tie or open collar. It's an incredibly versatile collar that works great professionally or casually and with a variety of tie knots and sizes. Our customers have asked us whether this collar can work with shorter men, or men with shorter necks. Our answer is pretty universal across collar types: wear what you enjoy and what works for you!

Bold blue and white striped cutaway collar

Cutaway Collar

Our Cutaway Collar is our most popular collar, and the one that we most often produce, for good reason. It works with everything, The Cutaway Collar has a subtle European feel to it, and looks good with any pattern, color or fabric. It can be dressed up or down - with a suit and tie, or with denim. We love it because it gives a subtle rakishness to any look that no other collar style has. 

Traditional point collar in blue and white stripes

Point Collar

Our Point Collar is probably our most traditional collar, and often thought of as a more American collar. It has a narrower distance between the two collar points and when buttoned, a smaller enclosure for a tie knot. We design a variety of point collar styles--from our classic tall-point, which is great buttoned up with a tie, to our casual washed point. 

Casual button down collar in orange

Button-Down Collar

Our Button-Down Collar evolved after a tremendous amount of trial and error trying to find the right proportions. It's an incredibly common place collar, but it was important for us to get the height, roll and look and feel of the collar right. We landed on a medium sized collar that walks the line between modern and classic perfectly. It has just the right amount of interlining to have a perfect roll when worn casually or with a tie for a more prep inspired look.

Classic club collar in light blue

Club Collar

Our Club Collar was inspired by the early 20th century, when rounded Eton or "club" collars were considered a classic mainstay of a man's wardrobe. Ours is simple and classic and has just enough interlining so that it sits perfectly under a jacket with a tie. We think it's a great twist on a traditional shirt. 

Bold deep contrast cutaway collar

Deep Cutaway Collar

Our Deep Cutaway Collar is a bolder take on our regular cutaway. It's a larger collar with a very pronounced spread. It favors fuller tie knots but can be left unbuttoned for a debonair look. It also looks great done in a contrast white. We prefer it for occasions when a little peacocking doesn't hurt. 

Dressy semi-spread collar in black and white

Semi-Spread Collar

Our Semi-Spread Collar is one of our favorite styles for dressier occasions. Think of it as a more traditional alternative to our cutaway styles. It has a wider collar blade that is particularly well-suited for wear with tie under a jacket.

Casual washed point collar in red plaid

Casual-Point Collar

Our Casual-Point Collar is a new collar style for us. Given it has less interlining and thus less structure, it is perfect for casual shirts, such as seasonal plaids, or work twills. The collar is reminiscent of workwear or utility shirts, made from tough fabrics such as twills. 

Banded Collar

The Banded Collar, often called a "Mandarin Collar" or "Nehru Collar" is one of our new collars. It is essentially a slimmer collar band, without a collar blade or fold to the collar. We use this collar in one of our more formal shirts, cut from 120 yarn count poplins and mother of pearl buttons. We also use this collar in our more casual print pop-over shirts. As such, it's a pretty versatile collar, with the ability to be worn more formally, or incorporated into more everyday designs.

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