Archetypes of Ill-Fit
We spend a lot of time here at H&C HQ talking about how well our shirts fit. But sometimes, it's just as important to talk about what our shirts are not - i.e., what an "ill-fitting shirt" looks like. It's kind of like that game of spotting Volkswagen Bugs. Once you look for them, they're everywhere. Obviously we live and breathe dress shirts every day, so ill-fit is something we readily notice. We also understand that not everyone has the luxury (or #menswear dork tendencies) to be thinking about dress shirts all day. For those people, we've put together a list of what we consider ill-fitting "archetypes" or common problems and manifestation of terribly fitting shirts.
The most common problem first. #muffintop, when the shirt is not tailored enough through the body and waist. It might fit ok in the shoulders, but when tucked in, all of the extra fabric ends up bunching at the waist and creating a look... that well, looks like the top of a muffin. Hugh & Crye shirts are darted in the back and have a tailored body based on four fits, so that there is no extra fabric to bunch up when they're tucked in. Also related to: #parachute, #blousy.
Moving away from the ill-fitting area of chest-waist-hips, and towards the armhole, we have #flyingsquirrel. This is when the armhole is too large and the shirt is not tailored through the body, which results in a large amount of fabric under the arm. This abundance of fabric at the armpit resembles a flying squirrel’s “wing", hence #flyingsquirrel. H&C shirts are tailored through the body and have a higher armhole that will get rid of that excess fabric.
This condition, #piratesleeve, occurs when the sleeves of a shirt, were cut way too big. Too much fabric, and too much room in them, thus they billow and drape through the arms. The problem is exacerbated when the sleeves are too long and the cuffs are buttoned, also known as #sleevefat. H&C shirts have a higher armhole, and a tailored sleeve, resulting in less fabric around the bicep and through the arm, for a more fitted look.
This is when a guy is wearing an ill-fitting dress shirt "out" or not tucked in. Generally speaking, we are ok with this look when the shirt tails are a bit shorter, and end near the crotch. Most mass brands cut their shirts very long; meaning, long shirt tails that hang down past the waist fully covering and beyond the butt. This is a terrible look, and resembles a man-dress. Hence, #shirtdress. H&C shirts have shorter tails that you can still tuck in, but when untucked will still only fall just below the waist.
To learn more about our how shirts should fit, check out our Guide to Better Fitting Dress Shirts. Or, jump directly to our fit page, or our various fits: skinny fit, slim fit, athletic fit, or broad fit. You can also check out the Hugh & Crye tumblr, where we show guys of various sizes wearing our shirts.