Dress Shirt Construction

Dress Shirt Construction
Overview >> Collars >> Cuffs >>Fabrics >> Weaves >> CONSTRUCTION


We consider ourselves to be shirt nerds here at Hugh & Crye. As such, we pay a lot of attention to the details when it comes to things like style, fit, fabrics and construction. We think that attention to detail is evident in our shirts.

Shirt Gussets


The gusset is the little piece of triangular fabric sewn in where the side seam meets the hem of the shirt. It adds extra strength to this high-stress area.

All of our shirts feature gussets, usually in a contrasting fabric for a little extra style and to let other shirt nerds out there know that you're serious about your shirts.

Most brands don't use a gusset because it's a difficult and time-consuming sewing technique.

Single Needle Stitching

Single-needle stitching

Also known as a lockstitch, this seam has two pieces of thread that lock the pieces of fabric together from both sides. Single-needle stitching is where a single seam is sewn, then folded over itself and sewn again.

It results in a much stronger seam that is difficult to rip and also gives a cleaner look to the shirt as there is only a single visible seam on the outside and single needle stitching is less prone to puckering.

Most mass brands will use a double needle seam that is less labor intensive but more prone to puckering and tearing.

Shirt Interlining


Something we talk about with our cuffs and collars, interlining is an extra piece of material sewn in that gives our collars, cuffs and plackets extra structure and a stiffer feel that looks crisp holds up to repeated washings and ironings.

Most mass-brand dress shirts are only lightly interlined if at all because it is an expensive and time-consuming production process.

Shirt Darts


An essential element to our fit, darts are the two curved seams in the back of the shirt. They take in some of the extra fabric in the back and give a shirt a tapered shape.

Few other brands use darts because it is an additional manufacturing process and often they are afraid of offering a truly slim fit.

Learn More About Our Approach to Fit: