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A Guide to Men's Dress Shirt Construction

A Guide to Men's Dress Shirt Construction
Illustration of tools for dress shirt construction

We consider ourselves to be shirt nerds here at Hugh & Crye. As such, we pay a lot of attention to the details when it comes to things like style, fit, fabrics and construction. We think that attention to detail is evident in our shirts.

A Guide to Men's Dress Shirt Construction
Contrast gussets on a men's dress shirt

The gusset is the little piece of triangular fabric sewn in where the side seam meets the hem of the shirt. It adds extra strength to this high-stress area. All of our shirts feature gussets, usually in a contrasting fabric for a little extra style and to let other shirt nerds out there know that you're serious about your shirts. Most brands don't use a gusset because it's a difficult and time-consuming sewing technique.

Single needle stitching
Single-Needle Stitching

We think the collar is the single most important component of a dress shirt. From the stand to the shape, we're obsessive about collar styles, and getting perfectly crisp look in each new style we introduce.

Sewn interlining of a dress shirt

Something we talk about with our cuffs and collars, interlining is an extra piece of material sewn in that gives our collars, cuffs and plackets extra structure and a stiffer feel that looks crisp holds up to repeated washings and ironings.

Back darts on a dress shirt

An essential element to our fit, darts are the two curved seams in the back of the shirt. They take in some of the extra fabric in the back and give a shirt a tapered shape. Few other brands use darts because it is an additional manufacturing process and often they are afraid of offering a truly slim fit.