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A Primer On Dobby Weave

From a Specialized Loom
Dobby Weave

Dobby cloth is a woven fabric produced on a specialized dobby loom. The technique and the loom first emerged in the 1840s and they allowed the weaver to raise and lower the warp (vertical) threads individually, which in turn created small, distinctive, geometric patterns in the fabric.


Dobby fabrics may incorporate a variety of different fibers such as cotton, nylon or silk, and they can be produced in a variety of different weights, patterns and colors. The colors of the warp and weft threads may be the same, or they may be different, which naturally enhances the subtle texture. The most recognizable dobby fabric is probably pique, which is most commonly used in the making of polo shirts.

When woven with very fine yarns, the fabric will have a slightly raised weave which is a very nice choice for a dress shirt when you want a little more texture than a simple, plain weave. Dobby fabrics are often a popular choice for striped and checkered shirts as the texture and the pattern can be very complimentary.

At Hugh & Crye, all our Dobby fabrics are made of 100% Egyptian cotton ensuring a light, soft-to-the-touch feel.

Examples of Dobby Weave Shirts
Contrast gussets on a men's dress shirt
A Touch of Texture

A dobby weave can create a wide variety of geometric patterns, adding texture to the fabric, similar to a twill.

Single needle stitching
Solidly Stylish

Shirts woven with a dobby weave add some depth to otherwise solid colors, such as a versatile light blue.

Sewn interlining of a dress shirt
A Thicker Weave

Due to their textured nature, dobby weaves tend to be a thicker fabric, giving the shirt a heavier feel.